Saturday, November 13, 2010

Fiona vs the Buffalo on the Roads of Cambodia

Today was all about Temples and Cycling. We ate breakfast of a variety of breads on the bus accompanied by a couple of bananas. The bananas are able to be covered up in one hand so they are also just the right size for wrapping in a piece of bread to eat which is what I did with mine.

While we are driving, I see a temple in full tact (most we see today are ruins) that has vines running through the top of each level. It reminds me exactly of the picture on the green cover version of Matthew Riley's book "Temple".

We arrived at the first temple and walked across a moat the size of a river (much like the front of Angkor Wat that we went to yesterday). The fence line on the bridge has a lot of stone men pulling on serpants - one good one bad on opposite sides of the bridge. The arch way is very small and our bus does not fit through so after walking through the majestic arch which has 4 heads on the top and has scooter-bikes (everyone rides hybrids of a scooter and a motor bike everywhere in this region) and cars and bicycles whizzing through the small space, we hop on another bus and arrive at our first temple. Although we asked what we needed before leaving our normal bus and were told just cameras, a bunch of us didn't have the pass we needed to enter the temple, so it was back on the small bus to return and collect our access passes. To meet our normal bus, we went to a "bus carpark" (aka dirt patch off the side of the road) which just so happened to be across from the temple like the one on the book. I deftly dodged the traffic to run across and take some photos, very pleased we got to come back.

The first temple was one of many in the area being restored. There is a UN program and many universities also fund programs to restore the majesty of this amazing area. I have a toy cat puppet (of course named Webber) and he plays super model for me a few times here. I found a carving of a battle along one part of a wall and so started following it along the outside making up my own story in my mind of what was happening. Time runs out though and I need to get back to the front....adventure here we come. The path back from where I am is blocked by the construction work and as I run through the maze of paths inside I keep reaching dead ends of massive drops with no steps. Above each of these wells are squeaking bats (identified from the smell and noise and droppings on the floor). Eventually I find my way through with a minute or so to spare. We walk through the expanse between a number of temples and reboard the bus.

The next temple is another race challenge. Because Greg and I and another team Peter and Ian both won a photo challenge the day before, we had a 5 minute penalty, so it was over to the Vendors to be harranged to buy things but more importantly indulge in coffee! They make coffee here with condensed milk which I am so relieved I can drink. The ice coffee version is even better but this morning I just need anything so hot will suffice. Once our time penalty is up, Greg is off and running but my coffee wasn't ready. Ian and Peter had left ages before and were as such disqualified. I finished up my drink with one of the social leaders, Saxon, and we wandered the temple together getting all 3 pictures and a little guided back stage adventure from one of the workers. It was fun. Once we got out the other side though we couldnt see anyone. The mistake we'd made was not just to go out the temple but out the gate 200m away too. Saxon made the call to go back to the front, so we whizzed back through the temple, but alas no one was there. One of the support trucks for our bikes came back and we jumped in the back riding like royalty along the 1km wall surrounding the temple.

Once we met up with the others (who all had their bikes) we were ready to go. I had to wait for my bike to be delivered which meant one thing - I had to ride like a bat out of hell to catch up. It started very entertainingly by me getting run off the road by a bus - joy - and then throwing my chain twice. The second time, Mr So the mechanic, got his tools out and adjusted it all again and we were off. Sprints are ok, I can do them although I'm not too fast. This sprint to catch up though was 20km!! I went through the full range of emotions by the time we caught the group at the first pit stop. The 20km was the warm up before the race, but my race was done. Thank fully there were a couple of others keen to slow down and we rode together through the villages to our next temple/next challenge. This one was a completion task, no racing and I think many of us were happy for the rest.

We had completed 32 of the now revised 75kms for the day and the sun was out in full 32degree force. We had another amazing lunch, jumped back on the bikes and soon hit the off road ride from hell. I don't know how to describe the conditions of the "road" and pictures (had I taken any) just wouldn't cover it. It was like cemented rock but not smooth and deeply corrugated. We were on this for around 30km, in the sun and with no turning back (unless you wanted to get on the bus). Each pit stop Jenn, Frank and I steeled ourselves and kept going. At one point they were ahead of me by about 100m and had just passed some buffalo....one decided to walk out in front of me. The bus pulled up next to me and I waited to see who should move first. It swayed so I waited. It stopped so I breathed deep and told myself to go. Our other social guide Kyle was on the bus and told me even the driver who didn't speak english was yelling "NO NO NO". The buffalo started turning his horns towards me so I rode as hard as I could on the bumpy road and got past him safely.

By the end of the ride we were all completely smashed. The last temple which was the mission of the day was the Jungle Temple. It was incredibly hauting and completely collapsed. The locals showed us around inside which was tough to clamber through with our fatigued legs. When we got on the bus again, we were all handed a beer and we fell back in our seats with much relief.

Can you believe this is only Day 2??

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