We wake on the train a little after 5am today. It would be nice just to stay curled up there and chill out but we have another brilliant day to get stuck into so we get up and dressed. By the time I try to use the facilities on the train which I wish I'd used before I went to sleep the floor is...well...as Kyle put it so perfectly you need to swim to the toilet. The stentch is too much for me so I cross my legs and hobble back to our cabin - a choice I will soon regret!
We get to the station at Lao Cai, don our packs and head off for the bus. Full bladders and rucksacks are not a good combination and now I am busting! Kyle organises for him, me and one more to go to use the station facilities which I am assured are better than the train (in part because you pay to use them). WRONG! They are pit toilets - that is ok but they are flushing ones and the first toilet is blocked and overflowing. Swimming here is cleaner than on the train but it's also deeper and just wrong. I tip toe through to the cubical with a door (only one of 3 do) and after leaving the paper at the door (der!) I have to wipe bidee style....interesting! Kyle tells me I was very brave.
We jump on the bus and I sleep most of the way to Sapa. We get dropped off at the most stunning hotel and we're all awe struck. Unfortunately we were dropped in the wrong place, but our hotel is the next nicest one in town. It's about 7am and we are welcomed to the buffet breakfast and our tables are on the balcony looking out over a wide valley from a high point. The view is spectacular but it's hard not to be a little distracted by the food. This part of Vietnam has a French influence and our hotel has combined the french influence with vietnamese food for breakfast. Jumping on a change of cuisine quickly, I have a toasted ham cheese and tomato sandwich along with bacon and sausage and noodles. I follow my first course up with a crepe with banana folded inside....Super Yum!
We have until 9am to get changed in the hotel bathrooms (our rooms aren't available until 2pm). A few of us head out to find proper coffee and have a poke around town. Once we're all gathered again, we jump back on the bus and stop up the road a bit to pick up our pack lunches. Setting off again we're dropped a little way out of town where we set off on a day hike. Sadly Kyle's achillies has got really painful so he missed today in favour of seeing the doctor. We have a really good time with Tom on our hike/walk. The terraces of the rice paddies are bare having just been farmed but they are soooo tall making their way up the mountains. Tom tells us that they can take a life time to terrace one section of a hill/mountain.
We see little waterfalls, farmers on the other side of the river with their buffalos feeding on the terraces and hidden in the bushes alongside the road we're walking on is an Albino Buffalo - it's so cute in a Buffalo kind of way. We wind up the track a bit further and see some of the local women of the hill tribes. We're told that their head dress becomes larger with their increasing generation - unmarried girls have none, married women have a head dress and remove their eyebrows and hair line to the edge of the head dress using wax to stop it regrowing. Mothers have a bigger head dress and grandmothers even larger again and so on.
As we reach a small village we're in for a treat. It has one of the local schools and all the nearby tribes people are there as well as the children in their classes. One class is outside doing stretches/PE and they are so cute. The men are gathered at the building next to the school chatting and smoking a large pipe (not too unlike the super huge bong we saw at the Luang Praban airport). It's the first time we've seen a group of men anywhere yet and this group is about 40 strong so it felt quite strange. Tom takes us to another part of the village where we are allowed to go into one of the houses. It's hard to describe the set up but there are large open plan rooms downstairs where one part is the laundry/wash room, over a bit is the kitchen and dining room, another section is a bedroom with a couple of double bed sized racks separated from the kitchen/dining room by the access to the upper floor. The upper floor is the store for the corn and rice and other food - almost like a pantry in the roof space. At the back of the kitchen/dining room is a door to access what they call dormitories - 3 sectioned off areas in a corridor each with a double rack. It was a privilege to see inside their home and an image I won't forget (no where near as bad as I thought).
We left their home and continued on a way, eventually walking down one of the terraces to the river where we settle on the rocks for lunch. Tom and my team mate Greg entertain us with their leap frogging over the boulders in and around the river. Once they are on the other bank and making their way along, they look like they are disagreeing on which way to go and then it's on - they race back to us on their alternate routes and jumping wildly over the upper section of the river from boulder to boulder. Greg wins the race and we're all relieved they didn't fall in.
We head back up the valley, cross the river again and climb up a little hill to the road where the bus collects us again. We get back to Sapa and can get into our rooms now. I settle in for a sleep for a couple of hours before showering and going shopping. It was a brilliant afternoon of easy trekking, lovely sights and a nice rest.
What I hadn't shared before now was before we left our hotel in Laos, we were informed we wouldn't be hiking up Mt Fansipan. This comes as a mix of relief and disappointment. We're the pilot for this adventure and a few of the treks to date have been under-rated (i.e. they were harder than advertised/rated by the local guides) so by now with only 1 24hr rest period we're pretty exhausted. Having said that, the acomplishment that would have come with completing such a hard trek would've been awesome. The decision was made because there had been torrential rain for a few weeks and parts of the track had been washed out. The area was foggy so there would be no view at the top and although we were fitter than at the start of the trip, many of us would have really struggled. A man was medivac'd off the mountain by helicopter the night we boarded the train to Lao Cai which reinforced the decision not to undertake the mountain for the safety.
One of the upsides though was that we got to stay in the hotel that night rather than camp on the mountain and after dinner (where the lights went out again but we did have candles this time on the table) I took full advantage of my bed.
Monday, November 22, 2010
Sunday, November 21, 2010
Planes and Trains
What do we want? MORE SLEEP! When do we want it? NOW! So we did! This morning our rest stop continued. With a serious amount of trekking and cycling under our belts, we really needed the break. There was however a challenge to do at 6am...the task was purely attendance the sight I'm told was spectacular. I did get up but couldn't find my camera - I'd put it next to my pillow and my shoes below on the floor so I could get out quickly and quietly in case Cynthia wanted to sleep in....I didn't achieve either and reached the main road at 6:25 as it was all being packed up.
The sight was the procession of Monks collecting Alms from the community. It occurs at sunrise everyday. Monks have 250 rules to live by (females have more, Buddhists in general only have a handfull). Monks are not allowed to kill including for food, so the community provide food. They also can't earn money, so all they have must be donated. In return to the community they reside over weddings, births and funerals. It should be noted each of these can take a week or more.
I had breakfast today at a French style bakery then went down and packed. We headed off for some wandering through the streets. It was nice just to wander - no rushing to get somewhere, no need to do anything in particular. Some of the group had gone off to the waterfalls where at one location they got to swim with elephants. I'm saving that for when I go back. Today I just had to listen to my body and take a go slow. I picked up a nice buff to help hold the torrent of my head leaking when I hike out of my eyes. We had an ice coffee and started the wander back. I picked up some strapping tape for my ankle ready for what lies ahead - Mt Fansipan in Vietnam. I'm getting really nervous about it without knowing what to expect.
Frank, Cynthia, Kyle and I induldge in some pork/coconut buns from a street vendor and then Frank and I continue on while Cynthia and Kyle stop for some soup from another stall. It's the next set of stalls that I finally find a top for my friend Paul. Asia doesn't do european size clothing and Paul is super tall. I finally find a XXL top for him and I'm delighted I had a couple of options so got the catch phrase of the peddlers in the region "Same Same But Different" which is usually followed with "You buy from me!" which is more of a statement than question.
We get back to the hotel with about an hour to spare and so sit in the comfy couches under the cooling fans while we wait for our transport to the airport. It's sad to bid farewell to our local guides yet again. Immigration is interesting at the airport and we have our first experience of Vietnamese businessmen who don't do lining up. They were however well amused with my cat hanging out a pocket in my backpack and I was amused by their massive bong! They were taking it as carry on luggage. WOW it's lax here!
We fly out of Luang Praban not long before sunset and as it darkens outside we arrive in Hanoi. As we step outside and head to our bus, Sam who has been in the region before tells us that the constant horn honking is just their way of saying to the other drivers "I'm here, I'm here" in order to avoid accidents. Tom our guide is very funny and very knowlegable. He tells us about the Red River surrounding Hanoi and the road we are driving on is the Dyke protecting the city from the river. We look across and we are at about the 2nd-3rd level of most buildings inside the dyke. Tom tells us the itinerary for the night and the morning and tells us in 1hour and 59 minute and 59 seconds maybe we will get on the train (or in other words just under 2 hours). We all laugh and he continues our education.
We stop briefly at a restaurant for dinner where they play a traditional song on traditional instruments, then they play the theme from the Godfather which seems really surreal! Finally they play click go the shears! What the?? It was fabulous and funny at the same time. The lights go out a couple of times during dinner (keep in mind we're in a pretty flash place on the second floor in a private dining room) and this becomes a theme for every dinner we have in Vietnam.
From dinner we get back on the bus, drive to the train station and after a hike along the platforms and across tracks, we board our sleeper train that will take us from Hanoi to Lao Cai. It takes 9 hours, the train does approximately 35-45km/hr and is quite comfy. We're due to arrive around 5:30am hopefully all caught up on sleep!
The sight was the procession of Monks collecting Alms from the community. It occurs at sunrise everyday. Monks have 250 rules to live by (females have more, Buddhists in general only have a handfull). Monks are not allowed to kill including for food, so the community provide food. They also can't earn money, so all they have must be donated. In return to the community they reside over weddings, births and funerals. It should be noted each of these can take a week or more.
I had breakfast today at a French style bakery then went down and packed. We headed off for some wandering through the streets. It was nice just to wander - no rushing to get somewhere, no need to do anything in particular. Some of the group had gone off to the waterfalls where at one location they got to swim with elephants. I'm saving that for when I go back. Today I just had to listen to my body and take a go slow. I picked up a nice buff to help hold the torrent of my head leaking when I hike out of my eyes. We had an ice coffee and started the wander back. I picked up some strapping tape for my ankle ready for what lies ahead - Mt Fansipan in Vietnam. I'm getting really nervous about it without knowing what to expect.
Frank, Cynthia, Kyle and I induldge in some pork/coconut buns from a street vendor and then Frank and I continue on while Cynthia and Kyle stop for some soup from another stall. It's the next set of stalls that I finally find a top for my friend Paul. Asia doesn't do european size clothing and Paul is super tall. I finally find a XXL top for him and I'm delighted I had a couple of options so got the catch phrase of the peddlers in the region "Same Same But Different" which is usually followed with "You buy from me!" which is more of a statement than question.
We get back to the hotel with about an hour to spare and so sit in the comfy couches under the cooling fans while we wait for our transport to the airport. It's sad to bid farewell to our local guides yet again. Immigration is interesting at the airport and we have our first experience of Vietnamese businessmen who don't do lining up. They were however well amused with my cat hanging out a pocket in my backpack and I was amused by their massive bong! They were taking it as carry on luggage. WOW it's lax here!
We fly out of Luang Praban not long before sunset and as it darkens outside we arrive in Hanoi. As we step outside and head to our bus, Sam who has been in the region before tells us that the constant horn honking is just their way of saying to the other drivers "I'm here, I'm here" in order to avoid accidents. Tom our guide is very funny and very knowlegable. He tells us about the Red River surrounding Hanoi and the road we are driving on is the Dyke protecting the city from the river. We look across and we are at about the 2nd-3rd level of most buildings inside the dyke. Tom tells us the itinerary for the night and the morning and tells us in 1hour and 59 minute and 59 seconds maybe we will get on the train (or in other words just under 2 hours). We all laugh and he continues our education.
We stop briefly at a restaurant for dinner where they play a traditional song on traditional instruments, then they play the theme from the Godfather which seems really surreal! Finally they play click go the shears! What the?? It was fabulous and funny at the same time. The lights go out a couple of times during dinner (keep in mind we're in a pretty flash place on the second floor in a private dining room) and this becomes a theme for every dinner we have in Vietnam.
From dinner we get back on the bus, drive to the train station and after a hike along the platforms and across tracks, we board our sleeper train that will take us from Hanoi to Lao Cai. It takes 9 hours, the train does approximately 35-45km/hr and is quite comfy. We're due to arrive around 5:30am hopefully all caught up on sleep!
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Elefunts!
We woke this morning to another well prepared meal - omlettes, tea, coffee and warmed rolls. That reminds me - at our hotel in Siem Reap (Cambodia) you could line up and have the cooks make either soup or omlettes with any ingredients you liked added in on a little portable stove.
So back to Laos. After breakfast we got ready to go. Some of the less delicate info I haven't shared about our lodgings on the top of a mountain in The Mong village of Poutao - the toilet was our first pit toilet that we needed to use. Paper was kept (i.e. not flushed by a pot of water) and was collected in a plastic bag outside. Our bathing was done using water out of a large drum/bin assigned as washing water which was really cold but it felt so good to clean up a bit.
As we head off, we look down over the Mong Village - it's so quiet and has such an incredible view. The path is not too bad (no where near as steep as coming down through the Thai Jungle which killed all of our knees) to start with but as I said many times throughout the trip - my head was leaking! The humidity even though we are going downhill has me soaked. Note to self - do more sauna/steam room time before heading back to Asia given Canberra is such a dry city.
We have a nice little break/"comfort stop" before heading to a slidey loose soil section that proves fun for some and damaging for others. Greg fell and copped a sharp stick into his hand. Kyle in his haste to get the first aid kit from the trek guide slipped also and hurt his ankle - later turned out he had damaged his achillies. After Greg is patched up, we head off again and about 5 mins in I roll my ankle. Thankfully my boots are great which stops it being too bad, but it really bloody hurts. Onwards ho and we come down to a river where there is an elephant drinking/bathing. This is one of the logging elephants and still quite wild. We're warned not to go near it as it isn't used to humans and might bolt.
We take a quick drink of water ourselves then climb up to a dirt road which is the latest section of road being built by the government to help the villagers with the logging. As you fly into Laos as well, you see loads of strangely bare land on the mountains. It looks like a patch stripped off the land leaving tan dirt behind and was quite concerning. We're told though that this is land the government has cleared for the mountain tribes to make rice paddies out of and that it is a good thing.
Walking along and talking to the guide, I didn't even notice the elephant in front of me. It's not like they are little or anything! We're instructed to move into single file and stay on the far left of the path so as not to startle the elephant. It swings it's trunk towards me as I go past to have a sniff (I was 2nd or 3rd to go past) and returns to eating. Guess we don't smell too good!
We finally trek through some lower ground and into the villiage where we are having lunch. If you can imagine a really dusty village of wooden buildings most on stilts (to let the air pass underneath) and one pagoda set up with two tables and chairs with table cloth, runner and cloth napkins, cutlery, plates and cold bottles of water. It was such a stark contrast and yet felt like a bit of an oasis in the desert. Lunch again was incredible. We've been thoroughly spoiled with most meals being multiple courses with amazing flavours.
Thankfully the truck from Buffalo Tours is there and we ditch our backpacks allowing us to do the last of the hike for the day without the extra weight of our day/overnight packs. Having said that, it's now really really hot and really really humid. I suddenly drop from the front of the group to the back finding it hard to get the thick air in and having my ankle bang away with fury after having had a rest at lunch. This uphill section straight out of the village is almost like a desert at first - barren gravelly hot and somewhat volcanic looking with tan colouring.
The next section was like low jungle - no cover but thick green vines and plants all around us. This is where is started to get really steamy and we were still going up. Once we reached the top it was a nice walk down (with another small barren patch) which included a river crossing needing us to take our shoes off. Any other day I'd probably even sit in the river but today the last thing I want to do is take my boot off. Greg gives me support to balance both getting the boot off and getting across the river. It ached to get the boot off, but putting it in the cold water killed.
On the other side we cleaned off our feet, pulled our socks and shoes on and set off for the last section. We walked through some rice paddies and down to the river bank where we climbed onto a long boat with deep comfy chairs. It was hard to stay awake as we floated back down the Mekong River to Luang Praban. We get out and clumb a big set of stairs. Really? Who needs more stairs at this point!! Ha ha. We were two blocks or so from our hotel and so happy to get back there. Kyle very kindly organised for some ice to be collected from the cafe on the corner to put on my ankle. Cynthia my room mate suggests we get some washing on which we do followed by some more shopping. Aside from dinner we have no commitments for the rest of the afternoon/evening. Finally we get some rest time!
So back to Laos. After breakfast we got ready to go. Some of the less delicate info I haven't shared about our lodgings on the top of a mountain in The Mong village of Poutao - the toilet was our first pit toilet that we needed to use. Paper was kept (i.e. not flushed by a pot of water) and was collected in a plastic bag outside. Our bathing was done using water out of a large drum/bin assigned as washing water which was really cold but it felt so good to clean up a bit.
As we head off, we look down over the Mong Village - it's so quiet and has such an incredible view. The path is not too bad (no where near as steep as coming down through the Thai Jungle which killed all of our knees) to start with but as I said many times throughout the trip - my head was leaking! The humidity even though we are going downhill has me soaked. Note to self - do more sauna/steam room time before heading back to Asia given Canberra is such a dry city.
We have a nice little break/"comfort stop" before heading to a slidey loose soil section that proves fun for some and damaging for others. Greg fell and copped a sharp stick into his hand. Kyle in his haste to get the first aid kit from the trek guide slipped also and hurt his ankle - later turned out he had damaged his achillies. After Greg is patched up, we head off again and about 5 mins in I roll my ankle. Thankfully my boots are great which stops it being too bad, but it really bloody hurts. Onwards ho and we come down to a river where there is an elephant drinking/bathing. This is one of the logging elephants and still quite wild. We're warned not to go near it as it isn't used to humans and might bolt.
We take a quick drink of water ourselves then climb up to a dirt road which is the latest section of road being built by the government to help the villagers with the logging. As you fly into Laos as well, you see loads of strangely bare land on the mountains. It looks like a patch stripped off the land leaving tan dirt behind and was quite concerning. We're told though that this is land the government has cleared for the mountain tribes to make rice paddies out of and that it is a good thing.
Walking along and talking to the guide, I didn't even notice the elephant in front of me. It's not like they are little or anything! We're instructed to move into single file and stay on the far left of the path so as not to startle the elephant. It swings it's trunk towards me as I go past to have a sniff (I was 2nd or 3rd to go past) and returns to eating. Guess we don't smell too good!
We finally trek through some lower ground and into the villiage where we are having lunch. If you can imagine a really dusty village of wooden buildings most on stilts (to let the air pass underneath) and one pagoda set up with two tables and chairs with table cloth, runner and cloth napkins, cutlery, plates and cold bottles of water. It was such a stark contrast and yet felt like a bit of an oasis in the desert. Lunch again was incredible. We've been thoroughly spoiled with most meals being multiple courses with amazing flavours.
Thankfully the truck from Buffalo Tours is there and we ditch our backpacks allowing us to do the last of the hike for the day without the extra weight of our day/overnight packs. Having said that, it's now really really hot and really really humid. I suddenly drop from the front of the group to the back finding it hard to get the thick air in and having my ankle bang away with fury after having had a rest at lunch. This uphill section straight out of the village is almost like a desert at first - barren gravelly hot and somewhat volcanic looking with tan colouring.
The next section was like low jungle - no cover but thick green vines and plants all around us. This is where is started to get really steamy and we were still going up. Once we reached the top it was a nice walk down (with another small barren patch) which included a river crossing needing us to take our shoes off. Any other day I'd probably even sit in the river but today the last thing I want to do is take my boot off. Greg gives me support to balance both getting the boot off and getting across the river. It ached to get the boot off, but putting it in the cold water killed.
On the other side we cleaned off our feet, pulled our socks and shoes on and set off for the last section. We walked through some rice paddies and down to the river bank where we climbed onto a long boat with deep comfy chairs. It was hard to stay awake as we floated back down the Mekong River to Luang Praban. We get out and clumb a big set of stairs. Really? Who needs more stairs at this point!! Ha ha. We were two blocks or so from our hotel and so happy to get back there. Kyle very kindly organised for some ice to be collected from the cafe on the corner to put on my ankle. Cynthia my room mate suggests we get some washing on which we do followed by some more shopping. Aside from dinner we have no commitments for the rest of the afternoon/evening. Finally we get some rest time!
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
Double Whammy - Part 2! (finally updated/finished)
So before I get onto part 2, I forgot to mention that we got our washing around 8am this morning (rather than 10pm last night). It turned out we collectively gave them 50kg of washing and it was all done in one night, one washing machine and one dryer! Impressive.
So after lunch we ditched the bikes, got changed in a pit toilet and headed off on the trek to the Mong Village at the top of the mountain. We were at about 300m and got up to 1500m. It was 32degrees and about 90% humidity. Needless to say it was a slow difficult climb, but we all made it including Haans who is 71 and has had a double by-pass!
The children were very cute and very shy at first. There are rules amongst the Mong tribes that you can't marry within but by golly you don't have to stop pro-creating! There were kids everywhere. I sat with one of the teenage girls while she crafted/weaved sections of roof for a new building. The building we stayed in had two sleeping rooms with a plank bed. It was rough! Our guides made us Larb from scratch, mincing the meat themselves by chopping it repeatedly.
The Larb we had was beef based with thai corriander, mint, lemon grass, onion, spring onions and stalks and the secret ingrediant in this one...Banana Tree Flowers. On their own, they taste terrible and from the villages apparently they taste worse. However, the wild ones when cooked up in this dish are amazing. Our local guides were also our cooks and incredible at weilding a knife to cut things free hand (no board although they did have one for the meat and smaller herbs). As Lauren, Sam and I sat with them, they told us the origin of Larb and its name. The King was calling on a village and the family he was visiting was in a panic as to what to make. They killed some chicken (Larb can be done with Pork, Chicken or Beef and sometimes Tofu but that is more western) and cut up herbs, minced the meat and combined it with salt and peper and other flavours they could scrounge up and served it all to the King. The King was amazed with the flavour and asked what the dish was called. There was no answer and so he named it Larb which means Lucky Food.
It was a long night, but well worth the trek. We curled up on the wood slats and nodded off as best we could. There was a slight mix up with our bedding that being each side thought the other was bringing it. The girls scored from the locals 3 pillows, 2 blankets and some thin mattresses (kinda like doona thickness). The boys got 2 blankets and some matresses (less and thinner than the girls!).
So after lunch we ditched the bikes, got changed in a pit toilet and headed off on the trek to the Mong Village at the top of the mountain. We were at about 300m and got up to 1500m. It was 32degrees and about 90% humidity. Needless to say it was a slow difficult climb, but we all made it including Haans who is 71 and has had a double by-pass!
The children were very cute and very shy at first. There are rules amongst the Mong tribes that you can't marry within but by golly you don't have to stop pro-creating! There were kids everywhere. I sat with one of the teenage girls while she crafted/weaved sections of roof for a new building. The building we stayed in had two sleeping rooms with a plank bed. It was rough! Our guides made us Larb from scratch, mincing the meat themselves by chopping it repeatedly.
The Larb we had was beef based with thai corriander, mint, lemon grass, onion, spring onions and stalks and the secret ingrediant in this one...Banana Tree Flowers. On their own, they taste terrible and from the villages apparently they taste worse. However, the wild ones when cooked up in this dish are amazing. Our local guides were also our cooks and incredible at weilding a knife to cut things free hand (no board although they did have one for the meat and smaller herbs). As Lauren, Sam and I sat with them, they told us the origin of Larb and its name. The King was calling on a village and the family he was visiting was in a panic as to what to make. They killed some chicken (Larb can be done with Pork, Chicken or Beef and sometimes Tofu but that is more western) and cut up herbs, minced the meat and combined it with salt and peper and other flavours they could scrounge up and served it all to the King. The King was amazed with the flavour and asked what the dish was called. There was no answer and so he named it Larb which means Lucky Food.
It was a long night, but well worth the trek. We curled up on the wood slats and nodded off as best we could. There was a slight mix up with our bedding that being each side thought the other was bringing it. The girls scored from the locals 3 pillows, 2 blankets and some thin mattresses (kinda like doona thickness). The boys got 2 blankets and some matresses (less and thinner than the girls!).
Monday, November 15, 2010
Double Whammy - Part 1
So far we have either been cycling or hiking in a day. Today it's time to do both. We set out from the Buffalo Tours Office with slightly better bikes than we had in Thailand - much to the relief of us all. We're stocked up with water and a few clip on Koalas (I also have my packets of koalas and kangaroos) and we head off through the streets of Luang Prabang.
There are times when I'm back home that I wonder why drivers find it so hard to avoid bikes in bike lanes. Cycling on the roads in this region puts a whole new perspective on it. Aside from being on the opposite side of the road, there are cars, trucks, vans, tuk tuks, motorbikes and scooters flying all over the place plus an army of bikes. There are no traffic lights anywhere and it's a case of picking your path and holding line and everyone seems able to get around each other.
Luang Prabang is a very touristy city for Laos but not the kind of touristy chaos you see in the likes of Bondi Beach. It's much more relaxed with a bit of both traditional and tourist culture blended into one. Each morning from 6-6:30am, the locals line the streets on their mats to offer alms to the Monks as they walk past in a quasi procession. The brightness of the orange in the Monks robes against the semi-darkness and white of the temple behind is a sight to behold. It's a very solemn occassion to observe and yet it is a daily ritual as is setting up stalls to sell their wares to the tourists.
After a short ride we arrve at a crossing of the Mekong River. I will never complain about the cleanliness of Lake Burley Griffin again. Ha ha. The water is a darkish brown with no visability. The task of the boat drivers to guide their vessels on and off the shore line is impressive. As we disembark with our bikes we have a steep hill to get up. We reapply sunscreen and set off.
My bike ride was quite short today (a blessing in disguise). I was quite upset to be told to get in the truck, but I'd thrown the chain before leaving the tour office and once on the road to the boat. It went again at the top of the hill off the boat and 3 more times shortly after. Connie had an amazing stack with gravel damage on her arm, hip and leg down one side. They poured metho on it to cleanse it enough which must have killed but she took it with oodles of grace. Connie joined Jenn and I in the truck and we met up with the group. Connie jumped back on her bike and finished the ride. We had a great lunch in one of the villages and managed to find a chiller box that had power and COLD DRINKS!! The felt like ice going down which was sore but so bubbly good.
Part 2 - Hiking to the Mong Village and our accommodation for the night to follow.
There are times when I'm back home that I wonder why drivers find it so hard to avoid bikes in bike lanes. Cycling on the roads in this region puts a whole new perspective on it. Aside from being on the opposite side of the road, there are cars, trucks, vans, tuk tuks, motorbikes and scooters flying all over the place plus an army of bikes. There are no traffic lights anywhere and it's a case of picking your path and holding line and everyone seems able to get around each other.
Luang Prabang is a very touristy city for Laos but not the kind of touristy chaos you see in the likes of Bondi Beach. It's much more relaxed with a bit of both traditional and tourist culture blended into one. Each morning from 6-6:30am, the locals line the streets on their mats to offer alms to the Monks as they walk past in a quasi procession. The brightness of the orange in the Monks robes against the semi-darkness and white of the temple behind is a sight to behold. It's a very solemn occassion to observe and yet it is a daily ritual as is setting up stalls to sell their wares to the tourists.
After a short ride we arrve at a crossing of the Mekong River. I will never complain about the cleanliness of Lake Burley Griffin again. Ha ha. The water is a darkish brown with no visability. The task of the boat drivers to guide their vessels on and off the shore line is impressive. As we disembark with our bikes we have a steep hill to get up. We reapply sunscreen and set off.
My bike ride was quite short today (a blessing in disguise). I was quite upset to be told to get in the truck, but I'd thrown the chain before leaving the tour office and once on the road to the boat. It went again at the top of the hill off the boat and 3 more times shortly after. Connie had an amazing stack with gravel damage on her arm, hip and leg down one side. They poured metho on it to cleanse it enough which must have killed but she took it with oodles of grace. Connie joined Jenn and I in the truck and we met up with the group. Connie jumped back on her bike and finished the ride. We had a great lunch in one of the villages and managed to find a chiller box that had power and COLD DRINKS!! The felt like ice going down which was sore but so bubbly good.
Part 2 - Hiking to the Mong Village and our accommodation for the night to follow.
Shopping!
Earlier today we finished off Thailand and flew to Luang Prabang in Laos. We hadn't even got out of the bus before we were all in love with the city. On arrival at our gorgeous little hotel, we got all our washing out and over to the laundrette across the road. We were leaving early-ish the next day so the lady said she'd have it all done by 10pm. Yay! Clean clothes!
Next it was up to the room for a quick change, drink (my room mate Cynthia had a bottle of Vodka) and off to shop!! Bargaining here was a lot more fun and the people were just so lovely. With only an hour to shop we got a quick look around, picked where we wanted to come back to and grabbed a couple of things.
Back to the Hotel then to change again and head out for dinner. There were traditional dancers and a band on the stage on the other side of the room from us and we thought there would be another exhibition later in the evening so we got settled and ordered our drinks and watched a little from our table around the corner from the stage. They soon finished to a rousing applause from the tables in front. Unfortunately they then packed up and left so we didn't get to see them.
After dinner we piled back into the vans and were transfered back to the hotel. We had our team meeting and then headed back to the markets which closed at 10pm and it was now 9pm!! More shopping squared away and we came back to get our washing to find it wasn't ready :( Kyle one of our social tour leaders (they are with us the whole trip) said he'd collect it for us at 7am. So it was off to bed for the night, but not just any bed, finally we had soft beds and a somewhat regular flow of hot water.
Yay!
Next it was up to the room for a quick change, drink (my room mate Cynthia had a bottle of Vodka) and off to shop!! Bargaining here was a lot more fun and the people were just so lovely. With only an hour to shop we got a quick look around, picked where we wanted to come back to and grabbed a couple of things.
Back to the Hotel then to change again and head out for dinner. There were traditional dancers and a band on the stage on the other side of the room from us and we thought there would be another exhibition later in the evening so we got settled and ordered our drinks and watched a little from our table around the corner from the stage. They soon finished to a rousing applause from the tables in front. Unfortunately they then packed up and left so we didn't get to see them.
After dinner we piled back into the vans and were transfered back to the hotel. We had our team meeting and then headed back to the markets which closed at 10pm and it was now 9pm!! More shopping squared away and we came back to get our washing to find it wasn't ready :( Kyle one of our social tour leaders (they are with us the whole trip) said he'd collect it for us at 7am. So it was off to bed for the night, but not just any bed, finally we had soft beds and a somewhat regular flow of hot water.
Yay!
It's just an easy ride
Just like different countries have different interpretations of being "on time", they also have different measures of physical challenges. Of course when you have a group of 18 people, it can be like herding cats and everyone has different skill levels at different tasks.
Today's ride was on not so new bikes (we had brand new Treks in Cambodia) and it was nice and easy at first. We cruised across a damn and along fields where rice paddies were being picked (it's rice harvest season right across the region). The work involved is quite tedious and back breaking and it is amazing just how strong the farmers are regardless of age.
As we pass by the fields we turn off-road and so begins the adventure for the day. The riding isn't the challenge today, it's more dodging the thorns! I got a shin full before the second pit stop and stood with my cycle glove to my mouth as Jenn started plucking out the thorns. Back on the off-road we're whizzing along until we're told to dismount and walk our bike through this little bit. This little bit was about 500m of dense muddy growth. On the other side of it we get a little rest, pluck a few more thorns and once we're watered head off again.
This is where the entertainment starts. Ian hits a covered pot hole 100m down the trail and flips landing on his head - Helmets are a good thing! Once we know he is ok, we all have a bit of a giggle and marvel at his acrobatics just as Simon throws his chain. This is no ordinary throw though, it was wrapped around spokes and all over the place. It took about 20-30 mins to fix but by this stage there were 4 of them at the back with me at the edge of a thorny cane field waiting to tell them to stay right and watch the thorns. At first I was standing in the shelter/shade of the cane then I remembered snakes and I was out of there as fast as I could. When they came down I was a woman on a mission to avoid both thorns and snakes. Success!
We rejoined the group and carried onto a smaller temple and again after a quick drink we were off again this time to a much bigger temple. Unlike Cambodia, these ones were all current/in use temples and painted amazing colours with millions of amazing small shiny tiles detailing each intricately patterned section. We also paused for one minute's silence as today was Rememberance Day back home. This particular temple had 2 pagodas, one decorated with the traditional dragons/snakes and one decorated with a Burmese influence of Angels at the entrance.
Once we left we were only about 1km away from the end of our ride but we didn't know it. We turned across the front of an amazingly perfect little bungalo resort and I said to Connie "Why can't we stop at a place like this! How gorgeous is it?". There were rice fields planted up to the fence line with an unobstructed view to the mountains with a lovely blue pool and sweet little cottages. No more than 20seconds later we came over a small rise to find this is where we were stopping for lunch and to shower and change for the airport. It was simply divine and I am looking forward already to going back.
After lunch we bid the team from Thailand a fond farewell and jumped on the bus to the airport.
Thailand done!
Today's ride was on not so new bikes (we had brand new Treks in Cambodia) and it was nice and easy at first. We cruised across a damn and along fields where rice paddies were being picked (it's rice harvest season right across the region). The work involved is quite tedious and back breaking and it is amazing just how strong the farmers are regardless of age.
As we pass by the fields we turn off-road and so begins the adventure for the day. The riding isn't the challenge today, it's more dodging the thorns! I got a shin full before the second pit stop and stood with my cycle glove to my mouth as Jenn started plucking out the thorns. Back on the off-road we're whizzing along until we're told to dismount and walk our bike through this little bit. This little bit was about 500m of dense muddy growth. On the other side of it we get a little rest, pluck a few more thorns and once we're watered head off again.
This is where the entertainment starts. Ian hits a covered pot hole 100m down the trail and flips landing on his head - Helmets are a good thing! Once we know he is ok, we all have a bit of a giggle and marvel at his acrobatics just as Simon throws his chain. This is no ordinary throw though, it was wrapped around spokes and all over the place. It took about 20-30 mins to fix but by this stage there were 4 of them at the back with me at the edge of a thorny cane field waiting to tell them to stay right and watch the thorns. At first I was standing in the shelter/shade of the cane then I remembered snakes and I was out of there as fast as I could. When they came down I was a woman on a mission to avoid both thorns and snakes. Success!
We rejoined the group and carried onto a smaller temple and again after a quick drink we were off again this time to a much bigger temple. Unlike Cambodia, these ones were all current/in use temples and painted amazing colours with millions of amazing small shiny tiles detailing each intricately patterned section. We also paused for one minute's silence as today was Rememberance Day back home. This particular temple had 2 pagodas, one decorated with the traditional dragons/snakes and one decorated with a Burmese influence of Angels at the entrance.
Once we left we were only about 1km away from the end of our ride but we didn't know it. We turned across the front of an amazingly perfect little bungalo resort and I said to Connie "Why can't we stop at a place like this! How gorgeous is it?". There were rice fields planted up to the fence line with an unobstructed view to the mountains with a lovely blue pool and sweet little cottages. No more than 20seconds later we came over a small rise to find this is where we were stopping for lunch and to shower and change for the airport. It was simply divine and I am looking forward already to going back.
After lunch we bid the team from Thailand a fond farewell and jumped on the bus to the airport.
Thailand done!
Saturday, November 13, 2010
Ahhhheeeahhhheeeahhhhh
Today it is time to adopt the persona of Tarzan!
We started out by finishing off our survival training. We learned how to tie someone to your back to carry them and still have your hands free and we learned how to build stretchers. The the challenge began. In two teams we had to build both and race down to the bridge 100m away. Yippee for me I was on the winning team :) It was such a great laugh watching the victims bounce about in the various contraptions.
From the bridge we began our hike. There were fabulous waterfalls, small snakes, leeches, little huts all along the track and loads of little fragile bridges. Our second points challenge for the day was to make a fire and pots from bamboo. We boiled the water to make tea. Webber pitched in and was rewarded with his own bowl to drink from. It was a great laugh.
We stopped for sometime at a large waterfall (which gave us a good chance to look at it) while our guides re-cut the path for us to scramble up. It was a wealth of fun clambering up this steep slope with a freshly cut path. The guides were funny playing games with us along the way but it should be noted not to mess with them, they can wield a machette with such grace, ease and force.
We reached the ridge and sat for lunch. In two banana leaf packages we had fried rice and then fried/crumbed chicken. It was the best lunch we've had. We carried on up for a while and then began the decent....wow our knees were killing! At the bottom we waited about an hour and then it was off to Fly with the Gibbons! Google Flight of the Gibbon and Thailand and you should be able to find what we did. 18 zip wires a few bridges and a few rappels later and we were down. None of us really knew what we were getting into - everyone had thought it was one zip wire and that is all we mentally prepared for. For those afraid of heights this quickly became a BIG problem as once you started there was no turning back. The courage some of our group showed was outstanding.
Each time you set off on a wire the rush of air and adrenalin was fantastic. It really did feel like you were flying. Jenn was counting the length of each wire (part of her way of getting through it) so I can tell you the longest one was 17 seconds. 17 seconds of flying and spinning and flapping arms and yelling "Woohoo". Although it raised the heart rate substantially each time, it was awesome.
Once we were down we got back in our vans and headed back to the Lodge. While we had been waiting to go on the flight, I had asked the lodge manager if he could organise for some people to come from the village to the lodge to massage us. He didn't let us down and when we arrived back there were 6 thai masseuse waiting for us. We showered quickly going in two groups and were massaged to our hearts content. For a one hour massage it was going to cost $6. Most of us paid $8-$10 for the divine experience.
We will sleep like babies! I think the hike was something like 6-10km but it took about 4-5hours. We were so tired from using the last of our adrenalin on the zip wires but also from the lack of sleep on the wood beds. Tonight I think no one would notice the hardness of the beds.
We started out by finishing off our survival training. We learned how to tie someone to your back to carry them and still have your hands free and we learned how to build stretchers. The the challenge began. In two teams we had to build both and race down to the bridge 100m away. Yippee for me I was on the winning team :) It was such a great laugh watching the victims bounce about in the various contraptions.
From the bridge we began our hike. There were fabulous waterfalls, small snakes, leeches, little huts all along the track and loads of little fragile bridges. Our second points challenge for the day was to make a fire and pots from bamboo. We boiled the water to make tea. Webber pitched in and was rewarded with his own bowl to drink from. It was a great laugh.
We stopped for sometime at a large waterfall (which gave us a good chance to look at it) while our guides re-cut the path for us to scramble up. It was a wealth of fun clambering up this steep slope with a freshly cut path. The guides were funny playing games with us along the way but it should be noted not to mess with them, they can wield a machette with such grace, ease and force.
We reached the ridge and sat for lunch. In two banana leaf packages we had fried rice and then fried/crumbed chicken. It was the best lunch we've had. We carried on up for a while and then began the decent....wow our knees were killing! At the bottom we waited about an hour and then it was off to Fly with the Gibbons! Google Flight of the Gibbon and Thailand and you should be able to find what we did. 18 zip wires a few bridges and a few rappels later and we were down. None of us really knew what we were getting into - everyone had thought it was one zip wire and that is all we mentally prepared for. For those afraid of heights this quickly became a BIG problem as once you started there was no turning back. The courage some of our group showed was outstanding.
Each time you set off on a wire the rush of air and adrenalin was fantastic. It really did feel like you were flying. Jenn was counting the length of each wire (part of her way of getting through it) so I can tell you the longest one was 17 seconds. 17 seconds of flying and spinning and flapping arms and yelling "Woohoo". Although it raised the heart rate substantially each time, it was awesome.
Once we were down we got back in our vans and headed back to the Lodge. While we had been waiting to go on the flight, I had asked the lodge manager if he could organise for some people to come from the village to the lodge to massage us. He didn't let us down and when we arrived back there were 6 thai masseuse waiting for us. We showered quickly going in two groups and were massaged to our hearts content. For a one hour massage it was going to cost $6. Most of us paid $8-$10 for the divine experience.
We will sleep like babies! I think the hike was something like 6-10km but it took about 4-5hours. We were so tired from using the last of our adrenalin on the zip wires but also from the lack of sleep on the wood beds. Tonight I think no one would notice the hardness of the beds.
Cambodia complete
Today was a quasi rest day. Last night in the daily awards I was given both a daily certificate this time for courage (not sure I mentioned the first one but it was for innovation) and I was awarded BOTH bracelets for my efforts to survive the day yesterday. Ian gave me one bracelet for my achievements to date (Ian is on the board of Cure Cancer and as we cycled together during one of the stages today and he asked questions about me he realised he'd read my story) and my determination to keep going both during the day and overall. Frank awarded me the second one for taking care of him on the ride (rehydrating him and getting gu into him when he completely blew out). It was a big teary night.
This morning however, we had breakfast early and jumped on the bus to the airport. We sad fond farewells to our local guides and were on our way again. From Siem Reap, we flew to Bangkok and then transfered to Chiang Mai. The local crew were at the airport with a huge sign for us as we came out. It was brilliant!
The lodge we were staying at was out of town a long way, so we had a quick comfort break then hit the road. As we wound our way up into the mountains the roads became more and more narrow and corner/crest was met with beeping horns to alert other traffic to our presence. Once we were at the lodge, there was time for a quick change of clothes then it was onto the challenge. We split into two teams and after a brief on jungle survival, we built a shelter, fire, cooking and eating utensils, prepared food and last but not least, killed, plucked, cooked and ate a chook. It was awesome. I spent a lot of time whielding a machette chopping up bamboo - Noice!
We then headed down for dinner, had showers and hit the sack. Our beds are rock hard, well, more wood slat hard but they are warm (it's cold in the mountains) Tomorrow we're trekking the jungles and we are going to need our sleep!
This morning however, we had breakfast early and jumped on the bus to the airport. We sad fond farewells to our local guides and were on our way again. From Siem Reap, we flew to Bangkok and then transfered to Chiang Mai. The local crew were at the airport with a huge sign for us as we came out. It was brilliant!
The lodge we were staying at was out of town a long way, so we had a quick comfort break then hit the road. As we wound our way up into the mountains the roads became more and more narrow and corner/crest was met with beeping horns to alert other traffic to our presence. Once we were at the lodge, there was time for a quick change of clothes then it was onto the challenge. We split into two teams and after a brief on jungle survival, we built a shelter, fire, cooking and eating utensils, prepared food and last but not least, killed, plucked, cooked and ate a chook. It was awesome. I spent a lot of time whielding a machette chopping up bamboo - Noice!
We then headed down for dinner, had showers and hit the sack. Our beds are rock hard, well, more wood slat hard but they are warm (it's cold in the mountains) Tomorrow we're trekking the jungles and we are going to need our sleep!
Fiona vs the Buffalo on the Roads of Cambodia
Today was all about Temples and Cycling. We ate breakfast of a variety of breads on the bus accompanied by a couple of bananas. The bananas are able to be covered up in one hand so they are also just the right size for wrapping in a piece of bread to eat which is what I did with mine.
While we are driving, I see a temple in full tact (most we see today are ruins) that has vines running through the top of each level. It reminds me exactly of the picture on the green cover version of Matthew Riley's book "Temple".
We arrived at the first temple and walked across a moat the size of a river (much like the front of Angkor Wat that we went to yesterday). The fence line on the bridge has a lot of stone men pulling on serpants - one good one bad on opposite sides of the bridge. The arch way is very small and our bus does not fit through so after walking through the majestic arch which has 4 heads on the top and has scooter-bikes (everyone rides hybrids of a scooter and a motor bike everywhere in this region) and cars and bicycles whizzing through the small space, we hop on another bus and arrive at our first temple. Although we asked what we needed before leaving our normal bus and were told just cameras, a bunch of us didn't have the pass we needed to enter the temple, so it was back on the small bus to return and collect our access passes. To meet our normal bus, we went to a "bus carpark" (aka dirt patch off the side of the road) which just so happened to be across from the temple like the one on the book. I deftly dodged the traffic to run across and take some photos, very pleased we got to come back.
The first temple was one of many in the area being restored. There is a UN program and many universities also fund programs to restore the majesty of this amazing area. I have a toy cat puppet (of course named Webber) and he plays super model for me a few times here. I found a carving of a battle along one part of a wall and so started following it along the outside making up my own story in my mind of what was happening. Time runs out though and I need to get back to the front....adventure here we come. The path back from where I am is blocked by the construction work and as I run through the maze of paths inside I keep reaching dead ends of massive drops with no steps. Above each of these wells are squeaking bats (identified from the smell and noise and droppings on the floor). Eventually I find my way through with a minute or so to spare. We walk through the expanse between a number of temples and reboard the bus.
The next temple is another race challenge. Because Greg and I and another team Peter and Ian both won a photo challenge the day before, we had a 5 minute penalty, so it was over to the Vendors to be harranged to buy things but more importantly indulge in coffee! They make coffee here with condensed milk which I am so relieved I can drink. The ice coffee version is even better but this morning I just need anything so hot will suffice. Once our time penalty is up, Greg is off and running but my coffee wasn't ready. Ian and Peter had left ages before and were as such disqualified. I finished up my drink with one of the social leaders, Saxon, and we wandered the temple together getting all 3 pictures and a little guided back stage adventure from one of the workers. It was fun. Once we got out the other side though we couldnt see anyone. The mistake we'd made was not just to go out the temple but out the gate 200m away too. Saxon made the call to go back to the front, so we whizzed back through the temple, but alas no one was there. One of the support trucks for our bikes came back and we jumped in the back riding like royalty along the 1km wall surrounding the temple.
Once we met up with the others (who all had their bikes) we were ready to go. I had to wait for my bike to be delivered which meant one thing - I had to ride like a bat out of hell to catch up. It started very entertainingly by me getting run off the road by a bus - joy - and then throwing my chain twice. The second time, Mr So the mechanic, got his tools out and adjusted it all again and we were off. Sprints are ok, I can do them although I'm not too fast. This sprint to catch up though was 20km!! I went through the full range of emotions by the time we caught the group at the first pit stop. The 20km was the warm up before the race, but my race was done. Thank fully there were a couple of others keen to slow down and we rode together through the villages to our next temple/next challenge. This one was a completion task, no racing and I think many of us were happy for the rest.
We had completed 32 of the now revised 75kms for the day and the sun was out in full 32degree force. We had another amazing lunch, jumped back on the bikes and soon hit the off road ride from hell. I don't know how to describe the conditions of the "road" and pictures (had I taken any) just wouldn't cover it. It was like cemented rock but not smooth and deeply corrugated. We were on this for around 30km, in the sun and with no turning back (unless you wanted to get on the bus). Each pit stop Jenn, Frank and I steeled ourselves and kept going. At one point they were ahead of me by about 100m and had just passed some buffalo....one decided to walk out in front of me. The bus pulled up next to me and I waited to see who should move first. It swayed so I waited. It stopped so I breathed deep and told myself to go. Our other social guide Kyle was on the bus and told me even the driver who didn't speak english was yelling "NO NO NO". The buffalo started turning his horns towards me so I rode as hard as I could on the bumpy road and got past him safely.
By the end of the ride we were all completely smashed. The last temple which was the mission of the day was the Jungle Temple. It was incredibly hauting and completely collapsed. The locals showed us around inside which was tough to clamber through with our fatigued legs. When we got on the bus again, we were all handed a beer and we fell back in our seats with much relief.
Can you believe this is only Day 2??
While we are driving, I see a temple in full tact (most we see today are ruins) that has vines running through the top of each level. It reminds me exactly of the picture on the green cover version of Matthew Riley's book "Temple".
We arrived at the first temple and walked across a moat the size of a river (much like the front of Angkor Wat that we went to yesterday). The fence line on the bridge has a lot of stone men pulling on serpants - one good one bad on opposite sides of the bridge. The arch way is very small and our bus does not fit through so after walking through the majestic arch which has 4 heads on the top and has scooter-bikes (everyone rides hybrids of a scooter and a motor bike everywhere in this region) and cars and bicycles whizzing through the small space, we hop on another bus and arrive at our first temple. Although we asked what we needed before leaving our normal bus and were told just cameras, a bunch of us didn't have the pass we needed to enter the temple, so it was back on the small bus to return and collect our access passes. To meet our normal bus, we went to a "bus carpark" (aka dirt patch off the side of the road) which just so happened to be across from the temple like the one on the book. I deftly dodged the traffic to run across and take some photos, very pleased we got to come back.
The first temple was one of many in the area being restored. There is a UN program and many universities also fund programs to restore the majesty of this amazing area. I have a toy cat puppet (of course named Webber) and he plays super model for me a few times here. I found a carving of a battle along one part of a wall and so started following it along the outside making up my own story in my mind of what was happening. Time runs out though and I need to get back to the front....adventure here we come. The path back from where I am is blocked by the construction work and as I run through the maze of paths inside I keep reaching dead ends of massive drops with no steps. Above each of these wells are squeaking bats (identified from the smell and noise and droppings on the floor). Eventually I find my way through with a minute or so to spare. We walk through the expanse between a number of temples and reboard the bus.
The next temple is another race challenge. Because Greg and I and another team Peter and Ian both won a photo challenge the day before, we had a 5 minute penalty, so it was over to the Vendors to be harranged to buy things but more importantly indulge in coffee! They make coffee here with condensed milk which I am so relieved I can drink. The ice coffee version is even better but this morning I just need anything so hot will suffice. Once our time penalty is up, Greg is off and running but my coffee wasn't ready. Ian and Peter had left ages before and were as such disqualified. I finished up my drink with one of the social leaders, Saxon, and we wandered the temple together getting all 3 pictures and a little guided back stage adventure from one of the workers. It was fun. Once we got out the other side though we couldnt see anyone. The mistake we'd made was not just to go out the temple but out the gate 200m away too. Saxon made the call to go back to the front, so we whizzed back through the temple, but alas no one was there. One of the support trucks for our bikes came back and we jumped in the back riding like royalty along the 1km wall surrounding the temple.
Once we met up with the others (who all had their bikes) we were ready to go. I had to wait for my bike to be delivered which meant one thing - I had to ride like a bat out of hell to catch up. It started very entertainingly by me getting run off the road by a bus - joy - and then throwing my chain twice. The second time, Mr So the mechanic, got his tools out and adjusted it all again and we were off. Sprints are ok, I can do them although I'm not too fast. This sprint to catch up though was 20km!! I went through the full range of emotions by the time we caught the group at the first pit stop. The 20km was the warm up before the race, but my race was done. Thank fully there were a couple of others keen to slow down and we rode together through the villages to our next temple/next challenge. This one was a completion task, no racing and I think many of us were happy for the rest.
We had completed 32 of the now revised 75kms for the day and the sun was out in full 32degree force. We had another amazing lunch, jumped back on the bikes and soon hit the off road ride from hell. I don't know how to describe the conditions of the "road" and pictures (had I taken any) just wouldn't cover it. It was like cemented rock but not smooth and deeply corrugated. We were on this for around 30km, in the sun and with no turning back (unless you wanted to get on the bus). Each pit stop Jenn, Frank and I steeled ourselves and kept going. At one point they were ahead of me by about 100m and had just passed some buffalo....one decided to walk out in front of me. The bus pulled up next to me and I waited to see who should move first. It swayed so I waited. It stopped so I breathed deep and told myself to go. Our other social guide Kyle was on the bus and told me even the driver who didn't speak english was yelling "NO NO NO". The buffalo started turning his horns towards me so I rode as hard as I could on the bumpy road and got past him safely.
By the end of the ride we were all completely smashed. The last temple which was the mission of the day was the Jungle Temple. It was incredibly hauting and completely collapsed. The locals showed us around inside which was tough to clamber through with our fatigued legs. When we got on the bus again, we were all handed a beer and we fell back in our seats with much relief.
Can you believe this is only Day 2??
Sunday, November 7, 2010
Life begins at the end of your comfort zone.
I don't know how to begin capturing my first day in Cambodia it has been that wonderful! We haven't even been here 24 hours yet!
So last night, we got in around 9pm, had dinner around 10pm and I think we were asleep around 11:30. Dinner was in an outdoor paradise, where we were sat under a large hatched roof at a long table and we enjoyed a 4 course dinner. Through out the dinner we were given the race brief including running competitions such as a scarf that you need to steal without the current holder knowing. One point each time you steal it. There are other things like the best photo and the daily inspiration award.
This morning we were on the bus at 5am to go to the Temple of Angkor Wat to watch the sunrise. It's a fantastic experience as you watch the silhouette of the structure take form to an incredibly large temple. There is much conjecture over how many people it took to build with the two popular amounts being 50,000 and 380,000. My vote is for the latter because the intricacy and volume of the stone carvings would take a lifetime to complete even for 380,000. One lady features over 1800 times and she is Apsara - a dancer and a Lady. For each carving she has a different head dress, facial expression or holding different accessories. We had to find the only carving that shows her teeth.
Before I get onto that, after the sun had risen, we were told some of the history of the temple and then presented with an envelope. Inside were instructions and a second page with 3 pitcures. Just like Amazing race, we had one hour to find the three images, photograph them and run back to the guides. It was fabulous.
While Apsara was a Lady, Ladies do not show their teeth when they smile - that is what commoners do. So to find a carving of her showing her teeth is something quite special and all the locals know the picture as we show it to them looking for it.
After the challenge we returned to the hotel for breakfast, donned our cycle gear and set off on a 45km offroad cycle. Well, the first 5km-ish wasn't offroad and was the most terrifying - the traffic here flows but to few rules. We stopped every now and then, meeting the locals, trying to nicely not buy everything shoved in our face. We stopped at another temple with another photo challenge. This time my team mate Greg and I got our act together (we were 2nd last in the morning challenge). Greg took a picture of the picture, went to the top of the 8 level temple and I started at level 1. He found it before I got around the base and had sprinted over to the guides where we drew for first place with another team. Meanwhile I was giving out lollies to the local children who ended up taking my whole supply. They shoved 3 or 4 lollies in their mouth happily, but they were a mix of red skins, sherbies and milkies - sweet and very chewy!!
At the next stop we ditched the bikes for a few hours and set off on a boat to a fishing village that exists entirely amongst mangroves. I met the loveliest young girl there who was 15 but looked 9. She spoke amazingly clear english which she has learned from the tourists. In school she has 10 classes but they are all in Khemer. I had such a lovely time talking to her and learning about their village. She ran along the shoreline when we left waving and when we passed again, waved madly again. Like all children and women, they sell things to tourists. It's how they survive. I didn't want to buy her things but I gave her some money and holding her hands in mine and looking her in the eye I told her it was to help her study and was just for her. She was so sweet as are all the people here, but she was so keen just to talk and learn more where as many are just trying to sell to survive.
Earlier I met Maya and her mother Sara. They were so funny and sweet. I bought some scarves from them and one of their friends tried to sell me some bags. I actually really wanted one but it is day 1 and i am trying not to get silly buying things. I said to this girl "thank you but I don't need one" and as quickly as I finished saying it she answered "I know you don't need one. You need two!" I was laughing so hard and gave her a hug while telling everyone else what her answer was (that may win us another challenge!).
Back to the floating fishing village - after we left the area I met my little friend, we were towing some canoes. I thought it was fantastic we were giving them a lift but then soon we stopped and the canoes came alongside our boat. We were taken on a 30 minute ride through the mangroves (not smelly like the ones back home in Newcastle). I lay back for part of it, watching the canopy pass by as we silently floated through. After wards we jumped back on our boat tipping our two paddlers from the boat Greg and I were in and they were surprised and very grateful. It was only $2US each but it was like we had given them gold. We then took the boat back to the main village and went into one of the houses for lunch. It was so simple and so delicious! Rice, veggies, fish soup and battered dried shrimp and dried fish.
Letting our food settle on the boat ride back, we jumped on the bikes again for the last section back to the main road. By this time we were all worn out. We came back to the hotel, pulled on swimmers and jumped in the pool (after we all wiped ourselves down from the clay tans we had from the dust). Which brings me pretty much up to now. We are about to have dinner, then head to the markets where on our way there we have been dared to get a foot cleansing - you sit on the side of a large fish tank and the fish eat the dead skin off your feet. I hate my feet being touched by humans so I don't know how I'll like the fish but as Tania, Deciana and I know - Life begins at the end of your comfort zone!
So last night, we got in around 9pm, had dinner around 10pm and I think we were asleep around 11:30. Dinner was in an outdoor paradise, where we were sat under a large hatched roof at a long table and we enjoyed a 4 course dinner. Through out the dinner we were given the race brief including running competitions such as a scarf that you need to steal without the current holder knowing. One point each time you steal it. There are other things like the best photo and the daily inspiration award.
This morning we were on the bus at 5am to go to the Temple of Angkor Wat to watch the sunrise. It's a fantastic experience as you watch the silhouette of the structure take form to an incredibly large temple. There is much conjecture over how many people it took to build with the two popular amounts being 50,000 and 380,000. My vote is for the latter because the intricacy and volume of the stone carvings would take a lifetime to complete even for 380,000. One lady features over 1800 times and she is Apsara - a dancer and a Lady. For each carving she has a different head dress, facial expression or holding different accessories. We had to find the only carving that shows her teeth.
Before I get onto that, after the sun had risen, we were told some of the history of the temple and then presented with an envelope. Inside were instructions and a second page with 3 pitcures. Just like Amazing race, we had one hour to find the three images, photograph them and run back to the guides. It was fabulous.
While Apsara was a Lady, Ladies do not show their teeth when they smile - that is what commoners do. So to find a carving of her showing her teeth is something quite special and all the locals know the picture as we show it to them looking for it.
After the challenge we returned to the hotel for breakfast, donned our cycle gear and set off on a 45km offroad cycle. Well, the first 5km-ish wasn't offroad and was the most terrifying - the traffic here flows but to few rules. We stopped every now and then, meeting the locals, trying to nicely not buy everything shoved in our face. We stopped at another temple with another photo challenge. This time my team mate Greg and I got our act together (we were 2nd last in the morning challenge). Greg took a picture of the picture, went to the top of the 8 level temple and I started at level 1. He found it before I got around the base and had sprinted over to the guides where we drew for first place with another team. Meanwhile I was giving out lollies to the local children who ended up taking my whole supply. They shoved 3 or 4 lollies in their mouth happily, but they were a mix of red skins, sherbies and milkies - sweet and very chewy!!
At the next stop we ditched the bikes for a few hours and set off on a boat to a fishing village that exists entirely amongst mangroves. I met the loveliest young girl there who was 15 but looked 9. She spoke amazingly clear english which she has learned from the tourists. In school she has 10 classes but they are all in Khemer. I had such a lovely time talking to her and learning about their village. She ran along the shoreline when we left waving and when we passed again, waved madly again. Like all children and women, they sell things to tourists. It's how they survive. I didn't want to buy her things but I gave her some money and holding her hands in mine and looking her in the eye I told her it was to help her study and was just for her. She was so sweet as are all the people here, but she was so keen just to talk and learn more where as many are just trying to sell to survive.
Earlier I met Maya and her mother Sara. They were so funny and sweet. I bought some scarves from them and one of their friends tried to sell me some bags. I actually really wanted one but it is day 1 and i am trying not to get silly buying things. I said to this girl "thank you but I don't need one" and as quickly as I finished saying it she answered "I know you don't need one. You need two!" I was laughing so hard and gave her a hug while telling everyone else what her answer was (that may win us another challenge!).
Back to the floating fishing village - after we left the area I met my little friend, we were towing some canoes. I thought it was fantastic we were giving them a lift but then soon we stopped and the canoes came alongside our boat. We were taken on a 30 minute ride through the mangroves (not smelly like the ones back home in Newcastle). I lay back for part of it, watching the canopy pass by as we silently floated through. After wards we jumped back on our boat tipping our two paddlers from the boat Greg and I were in and they were surprised and very grateful. It was only $2US each but it was like we had given them gold. We then took the boat back to the main village and went into one of the houses for lunch. It was so simple and so delicious! Rice, veggies, fish soup and battered dried shrimp and dried fish.
Letting our food settle on the boat ride back, we jumped on the bikes again for the last section back to the main road. By this time we were all worn out. We came back to the hotel, pulled on swimmers and jumped in the pool (after we all wiped ourselves down from the clay tans we had from the dust). Which brings me pretty much up to now. We are about to have dinner, then head to the markets where on our way there we have been dared to get a foot cleansing - you sit on the side of a large fish tank and the fish eat the dead skin off your feet. I hate my feet being touched by humans so I don't know how I'll like the fish but as Tania, Deciana and I know - Life begins at the end of your comfort zone!
Saturday, November 6, 2010
Good Evening Vietnam!
We're stopped over in Ho Chi Minh for 3 hours. A little shopping done already for our mascots to put in our photos and we're all contemplating getting a massage too. You can actually get t-shirts that have "Good Morning Vietnam!" and we got well close to the infamous air control tower on our journey around the airport on the bus (well we all think it's the right one).
The airport is low on air con but we figure it is just helping us acclimatise. I'm off to find a shower shortly and very glad I brought a change of clothes. I'm also glad I did decide to pack a book I've been putting off reading - there were no movies on the way over so the book came in handy for the 8+hr flight.
I also need to find out the Vietnamese way of saying thank you - it's not in my translator tool!! More to come soon - stay tuned!
The airport is low on air con but we figure it is just helping us acclimatise. I'm off to find a shower shortly and very glad I brought a change of clothes. I'm also glad I did decide to pack a book I've been putting off reading - there were no movies on the way over so the book came in handy for the 8+hr flight.
I also need to find out the Vietnamese way of saying thank you - it's not in my translator tool!! More to come soon - stay tuned!
Friday, November 5, 2010
Last night in my bed (temporarily)
All snug, Ming at my feet, Webber sulking down stairs & my arms around Mr Ted. Less than 12 hrs to go & I'm finally packed & falling asleep. Will post proper in the morning. Ni nigh.
Thursday, November 4, 2010
Excited or panicked?
Doesn't really matter if I am excited or panicked just now - they feel just the same. In fact it's not too dissimilar to the night before a triathlon. I know I'm prepared, I know I'll love it, I know I will have loads to share with friends at the end of it and I know it will be satisfying. Still though I get the waves of anxiety & excitement followed by the smart bit of my brain kicking in rational lists of thoughts checking to see I have all I need, then butterflies return.
Tonight I got a last hug from my source of strength - Paul. Paul & Mars have been right there to hold my hand everytime I've been unbalanced in my drive for this trip. They repeatedly told me to hold on when it was all too much because they believe in me. I forgot to hug Mars when she left the pool, but I know we'll have a big hug & probably a champers when I get back. So looking forwad to seeing all the girls (Mars, Kristy, Dec, Dani & Ange) at Kristy's combined Tupperware & nutrimetics party 2 days after I get back - slight change of scenery from the trip!
Dec is cooking banana muffins which she tells me aren't as good as the mini love cakes because they are healthy but they are still good. I'm lucky to have a housemate who loves cooking & sports as much as I do plus has the same fascination with everything else in life from people to the arts to modern and ancient wonders. Oh and I am lucky to have a housemate so willing to look after the cats while I am away even though she is allergic to them! I am going to miss moments like right now when webber (suspected origin of his name being because he has 3 legs like a webber BBQ) is curled up with me and he's purring away madly. Can't wait for the hugs when I get back!
Ok time to hang out the washing & get to bed. Nigh night!
Tonight I got a last hug from my source of strength - Paul. Paul & Mars have been right there to hold my hand everytime I've been unbalanced in my drive for this trip. They repeatedly told me to hold on when it was all too much because they believe in me. I forgot to hug Mars when she left the pool, but I know we'll have a big hug & probably a champers when I get back. So looking forwad to seeing all the girls (Mars, Kristy, Dec, Dani & Ange) at Kristy's combined Tupperware & nutrimetics party 2 days after I get back - slight change of scenery from the trip!
Dec is cooking banana muffins which she tells me aren't as good as the mini love cakes because they are healthy but they are still good. I'm lucky to have a housemate who loves cooking & sports as much as I do plus has the same fascination with everything else in life from people to the arts to modern and ancient wonders. Oh and I am lucky to have a housemate so willing to look after the cats while I am away even though she is allergic to them! I am going to miss moments like right now when webber (suspected origin of his name being because he has 3 legs like a webber BBQ) is curled up with me and he's purring away madly. Can't wait for the hugs when I get back!
Ok time to hang out the washing & get to bed. Nigh night!
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
Arabian love
Well Arabian Love Cake to be precise. That is what is in the oven just now. The big one is for Kelly's birthday for morning tea Friday & the mini ones are for Steve, my life saving soft tissue therapist who without his help I wouldn't be physically able to do this trip. Another big thank you person. Steve has worn all my whinging about how much he's hurting me to fix me with great humour & tolerance. Go see him at clinic 88 in belco, he is a magician.
My car is back & looking spiffing with new back door, back bumper & tow bar. It was all washed clean too (bonus as I gave it to them with tree debris & spider webs galore after being parked under a tree for days).
The lovely Deciana is giving me a lift to the airport which ticks off another item. Doona is still a problem but I hope to sort that tomorrow, oh & I haven't packed yet! Tomorrow night is swimming & truffle making & all going to plan I'll finish early (4:30) on Friday. Still need a new headlamp so a trip to the mall Friday sounds good.
Ok, off to sleep smelling like tasty Love Cake!
My car is back & looking spiffing with new back door, back bumper & tow bar. It was all washed clean too (bonus as I gave it to them with tree debris & spider webs galore after being parked under a tree for days).
The lovely Deciana is giving me a lift to the airport which ticks off another item. Doona is still a problem but I hope to sort that tomorrow, oh & I haven't packed yet! Tomorrow night is swimming & truffle making & all going to plan I'll finish early (4:30) on Friday. Still need a new headlamp so a trip to the mall Friday sounds good.
Ok, off to sleep smelling like tasty Love Cake!
Back online!
Ok, finally back online with my blog. I decided since there was such a big time break between my last post & now that I'd start afresh. After all, a big part of this trek for me is to put the past behind me.
So, here we are, 3 sleeps to go and boy do I have a lot to do! My car will be ready from the smash repairers hopefully today, I have 2 job interviews today and one tomorrow with the latest good news on that being my boss is going to release me as soon as I have a firm offer. I have washing to do (especially yesterday's work clothes which I coached running in while it was raining). I have some odds & sods still to buy, a doona to get washed, thank you plaques to pick up & deliver, transport to Canberra airport to organise and it all needs to be done in 48hrs while I also complete a transition plan for our project at work!
The question begs...why am I blogging? I'm locked out of my house at 7am a day early for my physio appt. I'd get the bus but I'm in all my wet weather gear for my scooter so I might look odd.
There are so many people I want to thank for so many different things & I hope over the next couple of posts I'll get them all, but just now I want to say a big thanks to Cherry at my old work for running around & selling my CV & organizing today's two interviews - I really hope I can go back there to work.
Ok, enough for now, time to get a locksmith I think!
So, here we are, 3 sleeps to go and boy do I have a lot to do! My car will be ready from the smash repairers hopefully today, I have 2 job interviews today and one tomorrow with the latest good news on that being my boss is going to release me as soon as I have a firm offer. I have washing to do (especially yesterday's work clothes which I coached running in while it was raining). I have some odds & sods still to buy, a doona to get washed, thank you plaques to pick up & deliver, transport to Canberra airport to organise and it all needs to be done in 48hrs while I also complete a transition plan for our project at work!
The question begs...why am I blogging? I'm locked out of my house at 7am a day early for my physio appt. I'd get the bus but I'm in all my wet weather gear for my scooter so I might look odd.
There are so many people I want to thank for so many different things & I hope over the next couple of posts I'll get them all, but just now I want to say a big thanks to Cherry at my old work for running around & selling my CV & organizing today's two interviews - I really hope I can go back there to work.
Ok, enough for now, time to get a locksmith I think!
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